When in Rome… Do as the Romans do and eat at simple tavernas.  The first-century Roman gourmand Apicius may have been fond of camel heels and flamingo brains, but today’s Romans have simpler tastes.  They tend to avoid ostentation in favour of side-street hosterias and traditional trattorias serving cucina povera (“poor food”) based on rustic, offal-based dishes.  And, if you